Unless you exchange the collapsible bushing, the re-torque isnt exactly a set number, but a somewhat higher bearing preload than what you have. I get through a ton on pinion seals from running at Chrysler Dodge Jeep Dealership. The just time I always used hand tools was when I first set up the pre-load on the bearings and stifling the sleeve. Even using a shock to try to start crushing the arm is virtually impossible sometimes. Mark the span to driveshaft that way you hold the drive-train in line and won't have a vibration. Use a 1/2" impact to take the pinion nut. Don't hit the pinion itself whatever you do. That way the pre-load should remain where its set. Don't knock the yoke with a hammer if you want to serve the yoke slide off the pinion because if you set the yoke, it will have a vibration. Just hit the yoke little by little support until it slides off. Use a medium screwdriver and your hammer to hit the sides of the varnish in and turn your way round the seal. When I stay "sides of the seal", I think the piece that is not into the pinion housing of the axle. Hit the seal into the plaza of the seal. It will turn and as you exercise your way round it, it will begin to get out of the axle. Clean the sealant out of the pinion housing and you will ask a socket or something big enough to fit about the outer edge the seal. Basically the socket or whatever your release to use hitting the same percentage of the old seal you hit to take it. Put some grease on the interior of the new seal over the short spring. This holds the outflow from dropping out during installation. Use your hammer to tap the socket or whatever your using to advertise the seal into the housing. Once the varnish is loaded with the housing, slide the link back onto the quill and use your impact to reduce your pinion nut. Once the socket stops spinnig your tight enough! Reinstall the driveshaft and top off the liquid and your done. I trust this helps and let us know how it goes! Check pinion bearings for play. If work is found, disregard the following instructions and have pinion bearings replaced. Pull back and spend the oil. If you get a drain-able cover, just spend the oil. Remove wheels, brakes, and axle shafts. Mark drive shaft orientation and take it Mark pinion nut orientation and calculate the threads showing. Measure combined pinion and carrier preload with a inch pound torque wrench. Remove nut, yoke, and seal. Check yoke for seal groove. Replace if required. Clean seal section of housing thoroughly, ensure no oil is remaining on the surface. Coat seal with permatex, or loctite flange sealant. Install seal Coat yoke in oil, install yoke. Loctite and re install pinion nut to previous position, plus 1/8th of a turn. Measure rotating resistance. Ensure it is adequate to or SLIGHTLY greater then the original reading. Re assemble the the axle assembly, fill with oil, etc etc. Ive done it more than a few times and yet get the manual sitting in the rear load area for quick reference. As a start, I hit the tires and rotors, turn the steering wheel straight and beat the inch pound torque it takes to become the pinion. If it turns too hard, I take the axles. Turn it over a few times with your reach to get a look for what it takes to grow it. Oil the pinion yoke area up well with a penetrating oil and clear the eat and mud off of everything. I sign the, driveshaft, pinion (top of the threads) with a plug and the nut and beat the torque to take the nut (usually about 200 foot pounds/takes a serious torque wrench) and consider the amount of turns to transfer the nut. I use a mokey wrench and part of pipe (jammed against the frame) to obtain the link and receive a fat friend over to play the nut, while I catch the torque. The aim is to get everything back together into the like position, as when it came apart, then add a little more bearing preload (a somewhat higher torque) than what you took apart. Unless you install a new collaspible sleeve then the torque is a set number. Ive heard of guys just slapping it back together again with an impact wrench. If the pinion bearing preload gets too high, they get hot and fail. Ive done it by the script and had the pinion bearings, end up a bit too tight, for my taste. The D30 doesn't use crush sleeve just shims and torque. Since you are not replacing the pinion or its shims, here is what the manual has to say. REMOVAL 1) Raise and supporting the vehicle. (2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies. (3) Mark the propeller shaft yoke and pinion yoke for installation alignment reference. (4) Remove the propeller shaft from the yoke. (5) Remove the pinion yoke nut and washer. Use Remover C452 and Wrench C3281 to take the pinion yoke (Fig. 5). (6) Mark the positions of the couple and pinion gear for installation alignment reference. (7) Use Remover 7794A and slide hammer to take the pinion gear seal (Fig. 6). INSTALLATION (1) Apply a light application of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal. Install seal with Installer D163 and Handle C4171 (Fig. 7). (2) Align the quotation marks and install yoke on the pinion gear with Installer W162D. (3) Install a new pinion nut on pinion shaft, lighten the nut to 217352 N.m (160260 ft. lbs.). (4) Align the installation reference marks and tie the propeller shaft to the yoke. 181 FBI AXLE Pinion Std. Depth . . . . . . . . . . . 92.1 mm (3.625 in. Pinion Bearing Rotating Torque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Original Bearings . . . . . . . . 12 Nm (1020 in. lbs. New Bearings . . . . . . . . . 1.54 Nm (1535 in. lbs.)
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